2X2 Part 4

Why I use 2x2 Part 4

by Dennis M. Hanser

So far I have briefly talked about some of the advantages of using standard 35mm cameras for 3-d, and explained some common ways to do this. Now it is time to discuss what to do with these slides once we have them back from the processor. They can be viewed right out of the box, using a hand viewer, without any remounting, but often adjustments are needed for better alignment, cropping, etc., especially for projection.

If you are already using realist format equipment, and the 35mm 2x2 method is merely an additional way for you to add to your 3-d image bank, then you may want to just remount selected views in one of the standard realist format mounts. They are available in many different window openings. This will allow projection with traditional realist format projection equipment, such as the TDC 116 or 716 projectors. I frequently use RBT plastic mounts or Emde aluminum to mount my 2x2 shots. This is normally done for competition in club or in international salons. Until 2x2 is more widely used and accepted, especially in the presentation part of our hobby, you will need to mount in standard realist style mounts in order to compete.

Since the widest window opening normally accommodated at these functions is 7 perf, and 2x2 is 8 perf, some cropping of your images will be necessary. Also remember that this is in a horizontal (landscape) format. No accommodation is made for a larger vertical (portrait) format. Be sure to take this into consideration when shooting. For my personal use and for program presentation, I use the full 2x2 format. My slides are remounted in anti-newton, glassed, Gepe brand mounts (art 6002). They are then projected using Kodak Ektagraphic projectors. I will go into more detail on the projection in a later article. I also use hand viewers to enjoy my own 2x2 slides. There will be discussion of hand viewers in a future article also. In this article, I will talk more on the mounting methods that I use.

In 2x2 mounting, you are trying to achieve much the same results as in standard realist style mounting. You want to mount in such a way as to give the viewer a pleasant 3-d experience, without eyestrain and without major discrepancies when switching from one view to the next. Therefore some consistency is desirable. I have an advantage over some when mounting, as I am nearsighted. With my glasses off I can easily free view my slide pairs using the parallel method. With 2x2 you could also use the cross eyed method by switching left and right views for mounting. Then, of course, they would have to be placed in the correct orientation for projection, but since they are in separate mounts this is easy. An additional aid when mounting this way is the use of standard reading glasses. The higher diopters (stronger) work best as they allow closer free viewing without eyestrain.

Generally, I start by mounting the left view in it’s separate 2x2 Gepe mount and then while free viewing, the right chip is mounted in it’s separate Gepe mount. I can easily see what adjustment is necessary and make it before securing the chip. I generally try to mount the near points at or slightly behind the stereo window. What if you can’t free view? I believe it is considerably more difficult to mount any type of stereo without the ability to free view, but since I have always been able to free view, I am only guessing at this. Many types of gauges and jigs etc have been fabricated to aid in the mounting of standard realist slides for the free viewing impaired. 2x2 is not very different.

A jig can be fabricated from simple materials to hold the mount in place while aligning the chip. By placing a grid on a light box and gluing or taping an L shaped piece of wood, cardboard or plastic to the grid/lightbox surface, you can mount 2x2 with a fair degree of accuracy, one at a time. First mount the left chip (or right, it doesn’t matter which one you start with) and pay close attention to an object/location on the slide that corresponds with the near point. By using the grid lines for location, you can mount the right slide to the same location and have thus placed the near point at the stereo window, since it will be the same distance from the edge of the slide opening on both the left and the right images.

To repeat, you need to use the grid lines, or some other method of measuring, to place the same point (near point) in each right and left view at the same distance from the same side of the window opening in each mount. You will then be mounting the view so that the near point will appear at the stereo window on the screen and all the rest of the view will appear to fall back into the screen. All of this assumes that the views are to be mounted in two separate standard 2x2 mounts. They can be Glass or glassless, expensive or cheap, as you wish.

Remember to think first about the final use that your views will be put to. If just for your own personal enjoyment, you may elect to just leave them in the mount from the processor. They can often be viewed without too much difficulty. But for projection, or for competition, they will have to be mounted in one of the methods discussed above. For competition, mount in realist style mounts. For program projection, mount in realist style mounts to project with the TDC 116 or 716 or in full size 2x2 mounts for Ektagraphic projection.