2X2 Part 1

Why I Use 2x2 Part 1

by Dennis M. Hanser

The purpose of this article will be to present the advantages and some of the disadvantages of using full frame 35mm cameras and equipment to produce 3-D images. The ideas and concepts presented are the opinions of the author and are in no way meant to be taken as expert, unquestionable fact. Use any of the information you read here with discretion please.

I currently own three stereo cameras, a Kodak, a Revere, and a Realist with wide angle attachment, but almost never use any of them. When first introduced to 3-D photography I was actively engaged in Nature close-up photos and competition, so none of these cameras lent themselves very well to what I was doing. Since I already owned 35mm close-up equipment, I began photographing the nature close-ups in 3-D, using tripod and slide bar and sequential (first right then left) exposures. Except for active live subjects, this works very well.

It was natural for me to also use the same format for travel photography with my family. Most of these were done with two SLR cameras mounted in vertical format. All the photos used for competition were remounted in ‘Realist’ format mounts. Many of the travel and close-up photos have been glass mounted in 2x2 format for presentation with dual Ektagraphic projectors.

There are many reasons for me to continue using 35mm equipment. Availability of new and used equipment at reasonable prices, the ability to use the many different lenses and attachments, the ability to change base separation to suit the subject/situation, etc. Processing is readily available at reasonable prices and with reasonable turn around times, and at a choice of quality levels. Having prints or duplicate slides made is no problem, projection equipment is available new or used, and hand viewers can be purchased or assembled for reasonable cost. I also think that it is relatively easy for a beginner to use existing camera equipment to explore 3-D.

One of the simplest ways to begin is by using the ‘cha cha’ method of sequential exposure. Begin by leaning slightly to the right on your right foot and with camera at your eye, release the shutter. Now shift to the left foot and without removing the camera from your eye, wind and then take the left image. The separation should approximate normal eye separation, and with a little practice you will be able to maintain reasonably correct alignment and separation. It is important to keep the camera as level as possible and not to tip up or down between the two shots. Picking a reference point or two in the view can help with this.

After completing the roll with additional stereo shots or with regular single shots, send out for development. Pick up a couple of cheap steal the light slide viewers, tape them together with a spacer to align with your eye separation, and when you get your slides back you will be able to view full frame stereo. Any really good shots can be cropped slightly and remounted in Realist format mounts, I use 7 perf RBT plastic mounts, and then you are ready to compete.

Any reasonably still subject can be photographed in this way. Many scenics, most interiors and most tabletops can be done with this simple method. Addition of a tripod and a ‘slide bar’ to more accurately place the camera for the right and left images will be helpful, but not entirely necessary. Four of my 1st place winners and one HM last year were done with the ‘cha cha’ method. One camera, no tripod, no slide bar. So this simple method can be used with success.

I would encourage anyone who has never tried ‘cha cha’ stereos to give it a try.